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Fashion

A Beauty Retail Safari in Paris – WWD

PARIS — “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times,” Charles Dickens wrote, and such a paradox aptly characterize Paris’ magnificence retail scene of right this moment.

The unhealthy retail information was that shops in the French capital — like in all places else in the world — have been open and shut accordion-style quite a few occasions over in the course of the previous two years, as a result of coronavirus pandemic that retains raging on.

And but, new codecs that includes all classes of magnificence are more and more popping up across the metropolis.

Bâton Rouge — a purveyor of made-to-measure lipstick — just lately opened in the Marais neighborhood. Also there, Korres established a brand new retail location, and down the road Maison Berger arrange store. Nearby, the MarocMaroc model is working an ephemeral boutique boasting a remedy room.

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Also on the Right Bank, Galeries Lafayette division retailer debuted La Hair Galerie, whereas Cible Skin arrange a medical-aesthetic middle and Vilhelm Parfumerie, its first freestanding retailer. And that’s simply mentioning a number of ideas.

“It’s so encouraging to see that Paris is at the center of retail innovation,” mentioned Leïla Rochet-Podvin, founder and chief government officer of tendencies and consulting company Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “With reduced numbers of tourists in the capital, these new spaces address more specifically the needs of a French consumer, and [nod] to the reputation of Paris being one of the most interesting beauty hubs in the world.”

Even if magnificence e-tail gross sales shot up by a exceptional 43 % between February 2020 and February 2021, in line with the NPD Group, shoppers in France nonetheless love a real-life purchasing expertise.

“French people have always been seduced by a holistic approach to beauty. They have a ‘gourmet’ approach to the categories — fragrance, makeup or skin care,” continued Rochet-Podvin. “At the same time, these new spaces attract consumers in search of a wellness environment. They are often what we call ‘slow retail’ spaces, where consumers can take time — like [a ‘stroll’] — and have a more sensorial experience that is not available online.”

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She mentioned shops such because the multibrand Loox Concept Store and Bâton Rouge give “a more intimate approach to retail, escaping from a ‘mercantile’ spirit.” Rochet-Podvin referred to as them “a space of discovery or even education.”

Jody Israelsky, principal at Think New Retail, highlighted Korres as having educative boutiques. In its new Marais store, for example, there’s signage associated to the model’s heritage.

“The Marais, over the last few years, has been a chosen destination for a host of beauty brands,” she mentioned. Already, a stretch of the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois is filled with these.

Nearby is the Rue Vieille du Temple, the place Korres is positioned. It joins the likes of Horace and L:A Bruket, opened there in 2020, and the Maison Berger, specialised in dwelling fragrances, which sprang up one month in the past.

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“If you look at Vilhelm Parfumerie, by virtue of its location in the Golden Triangle, on Rue François 1er, there is the connotation of luxury, as this is where the major luxury brands are located in Paris,” continued Israelsky. “It sets the tone for the product.”

Looking forward, she sees a rise of experiential retail. “More and more retail brands are using their store locations to enhance the customer experience,” she mentioned. “Their brand is also a lifestyle.”

Here, among the latest magnificence openings in the City of Light.

 

La Hair Galerie at Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009

La Hair Galerie at Galeries Lafayette

La Hair Galerie at Galeries Lafayette
Courtesy of Galeries Lafayette

Hair care is magnificence’s new darling, and Galeries Lafayette has taken word. The French division retailer just lately launched La Hair Galerie, a nook in its Parisian Boulevard Haussmann flagship that’s crafted to turn out to be a mecca of premium luxurious hair care. The 160-square-foot area is positioned on the shop’s floor flooring. There, La Hair Galerie’s neon signal atops a six-tier pink shelving unit chockablock with white-glove merchandise formulated to wash, type and in any other case beautify tresses. (Think: Color Wow, Christophe Robin, David Mallett, Davines, GHD, Leonor Greyl, Moroccanoil, Olaplex, Oribé, Ouai Haircare, Hair Rituel by Sisley and Virtue.) A GHD counter is up entrance and backed by a hair station, for use for a diagnostic service and model styling occasions as soon as sanitary circumstances enable. Lucia Ruas de Sousa, senior magnificence purchaser at Galeries Lafayette, defined that the concept for the gallery bubbled from a confluence of things. The retailer, which has lengthy carried hair care, was the main selective retail participant for the class in France. “We already had a good base of offers that we really wanted to expand, [and] linked to the context of COVID-19, there was very clearly a strong acceleration in sales in this hair care category,” she continued. “We said to ourselves: ‘There is indeed an opportunity to seize.’”

 

Cible Skin La Maison de la Peau, 31 Rue François 1er, 75008

Cible Skin La Maison de la Peau

Cible Skin La Maison de la Peau
Courtesy of Cible Skin

Raphaël Aknin, a founding father of Cible Skin La Maison de la Peau who’s a health care provider in pharmacy, developed pores and skin immunity methods whereas working with pores and skin most cancers. “It is this research that inspired [us] to work in the medical field here with doctors at the center, but also on a range of technical cosmetics that is revolutionary,” mentioned Jean Ginefri, the medical-aesthetic middle’s different founder. He defined that the 20-unit retail product line with cleansing, care and remedy merchandise, can be patented after which launched in April. For their conception, a medical committee linked to the middle analyzed information from 6,000 faces over three years. Ginefri mentioned Cible Skin will include probably the most energetic components in its merchandise of any model, and people merchandise can be one hundred pc clear. Cible Skin’s elegant two-story, 3,230-square-foot Maison de la Peau formally opened doorways in June 2021. Doctors there use high-tech machines from South Korea for diagnoses and to trace pores and skin’s progress. Made-to-measure remedies concentrate on care and cures for faces, physique and hair. The middle has six remedy rooms. Elsewhere, Maisons de la Peau are scheduled to open in Shanghai and Tokyo in 2024, and New York in 2025.

 

Vilhelm Parfumerie, 58 Rue Pierre Charron, 75008

Vilhelm Parfumerie

Vilhelm Parfumerie
Courtesy of François Goize/Vilhelm Parfumerie

Vilhelm Parfumerie, the area of interest perfumery model launched by Swede Jan Vilhelm Ahlgren in 2015, welcomed the general public to its first boutique this summer time. “What did I want? Something so warm and so inviting,” mentioned Ahlgren, including his retail idea, which is saturated in saffron yellow, ought to seize every thing in regards to the model. “Inspiration is taken from the ’20s, Art Deco and Bauhaus. The inspiration was Pierre Cardin stepping on a spaceship in the 1920s and then taking off. I narrowed it down to basically ‘Space Odyssey,’ the movie, and then creating something out from that. It’s really taking something from the past and making something new.” He mentioned a humorousness was additionally thrown into the combo. The flooring of the 375-square-foot boutique is laid with brushed aluminum relatively than wooden, there are vegan leather-based panels lining partitions and upside-down bottles second as a chandelier. “I really wanted it to be a little jewelry store in Paris — but for perfume,” he mentioned. Architect Brieuc Larsonneur labored with Ahlgren on the idea. Since the Paris boutique’s debut, a Vilhelm Parfumerie has opened one other store in Bodrum, Turkey, and a 3rd is slated for Moscow someday between spring and summer time of this 12 months.

 

Loox Concept Store, 15 Rue Vignon, 75008

Loox Concept Store

Loox Concept Store
Courtesy of Loox Concept Store

Products from area of interest manufacturers reminiscent of Nuori, Raha, Solaris Laboratories, Ren Clean Skincare, Allies of Skin, Agent Nateur, Susanne Kaufmann, Augustinus Bader and Evolve Organic Beauty are discovered on the cabinets of the Loox Concept Store, not removed from the Galeries Lafayette. Its mission is to have a good time great thing about all ages and promote self-acceptance. Here, folks can have their pores and skin recognized to create magnificence routines and check out merchandise. The retailer — which measures 320 sq. toes and has a 160-square-foot remedy room — opened in August 2020, after having first launched on-line in October 2019. For every sale rung up by Loox, 1 euro is donated to the Léa Solidarité Femme affiliation, which helps ladies who’re victims of violence.

 

La Station by The Different Company, 10 Rue Ferdinand Duval, 75004

La Station by The Different Company

La Station by The Different Company
Courtesy of David Latour/The Different Company

“The idea is very simple; we are at the heart of Paris, and instead of just having one brand to present to our customers, why not invite other brands that are French, independent and want to make a difference in the field that they’re working in?” mentioned Luc Gabriel, CEO and proprietor of The Different Company. So between lockdowns, in October 2020, he shifted the 430-square-foot retailer in the Marais from promoting solely The Different Company merchandise into being a multibrand retailer. Walk in, and on the right-hand facet are French, impartial, natural beauty manufacturers. There’s Atelier Populaire with its soaps and pure oils, EQ with eco-designed wellness merchandise impressed by browsing, Z&MA with its “green beauty essentials,” in addition to Marilou Bio and Avril cosmetics. On the left-hand facet discover fragrances from The Different Company with a refill station, Wide Society, Cherigan — a fragrance model courting again to 1929 that was simply relaunched a number of weeks in the past by Gabriel, Le Galion, Nout and Nolença.

 

Bâton Rouge, 50 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003

Bâton Rouge

Bâton Rouge
Courtesy of Bâton Rouge

Bâton Rouge, the posh made-to-measure, eco-friendly lipstick model, opened the doorways of its first store in early December 2021. There, make-up artists assist folks create their dream lipstick — both a brand new hue, one which resembles an previous favourite or goes with an outfit or style accent. Once a coloration is chosen utilizing a mixture of 5 pigments and 4 toners, the feel is picked, with matte, satin or pure choices for the rechargeable lipsticks. On provide are additionally gloss or liquid matte textures for the fluid variations. (All formulation are wealthy in castor oil.) A perfume will be added — or none in any respect. Then in the laboratory in the back of the boutique, seen by means of an enormous window, the method is put right into a velocity mixer and the fabric is heated up. For lipsticks, the majority is poured right into a metallic mould made particularly for the model, whereas the glosses are poured straight into containers. Typically, the periods take a couple of half hour, with costs starting from 30 euros to 40 euros. However, reproducing an previous lipstick can take extra time. Reservations will be made by means of the model’s web site, however walk-ins are welcome relying on availability. “There is a search for experience, personalization, made-to-measure — for knowledge about how a product is made and  composed. We have that transparency, because we make [products] in front of the clients,” mentioned Océane Decourty, retailer supervisor. “We’re very close to them.”

 

MarocMaroc, 11 Rue des Archives, 75004

MarocMaroc

MarocMaroc
Courtesy of MarocMaroc

MarocMaroc is a pop-up opened a month in the past, which showcases merchandise with rituals and components — reminiscent of orange blossom and rose — nodding to Morocco. The 20-unit line, which is distributed in spas and luxurious lodges, amongst different magnificence sellers, is split into quite a few segments, together with the hammam line, the cocooning and refreshing line, and the hair line. There can also be a remedy room, the place shoppers can select from a menu of three choices: an hour-long revitalizing facial for 90 euros, a 60-minute ceremonial physique therapeutic massage for 120 euros and a 50-minute “awakening of the senses” physique therapeutic massage for 110 euros. The pop-up is because of shut March 2, however MarocMaroc plans to relocate full-time to a different store in the Marais.

 

Maison Berger, 75 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003

Maison Berger

Maison Berger
Courtesy of Maison Berger

In December 2021, Maison Berger — recognized for its dwelling fragrances — inaugurated a sprawling retailer in the Marais, after shuttering its store close to the Avenue des Champs-Elysées. The new location of roughly 1,000-square-feet sells a big selection of the model’s provide. That consists of diffusers created collaboratively with Lolita Lempicka, candles made by Devineau, which the home acquired in 2019, and the Aroma assortment. Central to the choice are the slow-burning, fragranced “lamps” made by the late Maurice Berger to destroy undesirable odors whereas perfuming interiors. He patented these “lampes Berger” in 1898. At the again of the boutique stands a perfume bar, the place folks can take whiffs of assorted aromas infused in ceramic bells.

 

Korres, 76 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003

Korres' boutique

Korres’ boutique
Courtesy of Korres

Korres opened its second Paris boutique in the Marais in mid-November 2021, some eight years after the Greek model’s first retailer, on the Left Bank. Georges Bakas, who heads Korres in France, famous the neighborhood is necessary for French and worldwide shoppers. The vivid, 430-square-foot boutique shares a big selection of the model’s 280 models from flooring to ceiling. They’re divided into classes, reminiscent of hair care, solar care, olive, physique care and perfume. Soon-to-arrive signage will define Korres’ concentrate on sustainability, which Bakas described as a long-standing, virtuous circle. “Our raison d’être is nature and the earth,” he defined. To wit, in 2020 Korres established a laboratory for recycling issues made by the model. Now, its paper purchasing baggage are created from a few of these recycled supplies, for example. On one other wall in the Paris retailer will dangle details about the model’s historical past and in addition a map of Greece exhibiting the place Korres works with familial cooperatives to cull pure components. Nine extra shops like this could open in the following two years, of which 5 can be in Paris and 4 elsewhere in France.

For extra, see: All the Beauty M&A Deals of 2022

Galeries Lafayette Names Arthur Lemoine Director of Buying Division

Vilhelm Parfumerie Ramps Up Expansion

 

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