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A great walk to a great pub: the Drover’s Rest, Cumbria | Lake District holidays

Start The Drover’s Rest, Monkhill
Distance 8 miles
Time 4 hours
Total ascent 70 metres
Difficulty: Moderate

Google map of the route

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I first got here throughout Burgh by Sands – a mile up the highway from this walk’s place to begin in Monkhill – in a Nineteen Seventies journal devoted to paranormal phenomena. In 1964, a Carlisle fireman named Jim Templeton took a photograph of his daughter Elizabeth close to Burgh (pronounced to rhyme with tough) solely to discover that, when he developed it, a unusual determine in a spacesuit and helmet had mysteriously materialised behind her. The Solway Spaceman seemed like a Doctor Who Cyberman and generated headlines round the globe, although most consultants today assume it was simply an over-exposed picture of Jim’s spouse, Annie.

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That the marshlands of the English Solway must be the website of such a bizarre, Fortean occasion doesn’t appear all that stunning whenever you’re standing on one among the slim wood footbridges that span the deep tidal dykes, trying north throughout the huge, glimmering water. The Solway is a panorama of eerie, wind-blasted magnificence. The gentle has a pale, ethereal brightness and the silence is so dense the ping of a telephone alert echoes over the murky inexperienced flats like the toll of a church bell, sending flocks of sandpipers and golden plovers into panicked flight.

The Solway is a panorama of eerie, wind-blasted magnificence

Inspired by the strangeness, native Anglo-Saxons adorned a wall of St Michael’s Church in Burgh by Sands with carvings of magical beasts. The Solway Spaceman is their Kodacolor equal.

A winter’s scene: the road from Burgh Sands heading north to the river Eden.A winter’s scene: the highway from Burgh Sands heading north to the river Eden. Photograph: Alex Telfer/The Guardian

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Burgh is a postcard-pretty village round a inexperienced, its lanes lined with Seventeenth- and 18th-century homes and a few of what are domestically often known as clay dabbins – cruck barns constructed from timber, clay, pebbles and hay. Walking north you cross a rush-thatched cottage with whitewashed partitions and heavy buttresses that calls to thoughts the Vikings. It was warriors of one other type that made their mark right here, although. Beside the Greyhound Inn stands a bronze statue of Edward I brandishing a sword and customarily trying prepared to tackle all comers in the pub automobile park. The Hammer of the Scots died in Burgh in 1307. Sick with dysentery, the aged however nonetheless belligerent monarch was carried out to the fringe of the Solway so he may name out the enemy along with his dying breath.

Graves in Saint Michael’s churchyard, Burgh by SandsGraves in Saint Michael’s churchyard, Burgh by Sands Photograph: Alex Telfer/the Guardian

A Victorian stone tower marks the spot the place Edward Longshanks croaked out his last insult. It’s surrounded by iron railings to shield it from the chunky, shaggy-coated cattle that wander the salty land as if re-enacting the scenes JMW Turner captured in his etching, Solway Moss. Nearby are remnants of more moderen conflicts – concrete commentary posts and a goal arrow (which, as if in homage to Edward Longshanks, factors straight in direction of Scotland) – left over from the chilly conflict, when this strip of the Solway was an RAF firing vary.

The violence of the Anglo-Scottish border was given a romantic gloss by Sir Walter Scott who cherished the wildness of the Solway

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Hadrian’s Wall begins to the west at Bowness-on-Solway, however there’s barely something left of the stretch to Carlisle. Huge piles of the Roman masons’ exactly minimize and crafted stone had been carried off in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries to construct barns, homes and pele towers, thick-walled refuges for when reiver bands crossed the Solway on horseback through hazardous tidal fords or waths, to steal livestock and no matter chattels their victims possessed. There’s a good instance of a pele at the jap finish of Saint Michael’s church.

The violence of the Anglo-Scottish border was given a romantic gloss by Sir Walter Scott. The great novelist cherished the wildness of the Solway, and as you walk in direction of the mouth of the River Eden, you’ll see Old Sandfield, which options in Redgauntlet, his novel of Jacobite revolt, as the Lady Lowther Inn.

River bank and swamWalking south alongside the Eden in direction of Beaumont. Photograph: Alex Telfer/the Guardian

In the neat village of Beaumont, the Norman church is constructed on the website of a Roman turret. It’s barely 30 metres above sea stage, however so low is the floor round it, the churchyard has commanding views that stretch from the north Pennines to the rugged brown hills of Annandale. Nearby is the course of a canal that when linked Carlisle with the hamlet of Fishers Cross, a dozen miles to the west (a few of the bridges in Burgh had been as soon as aqueducts). In 1819, Fishers Cross was renamed Port Carlisle and buyers promised that the new port would develop into “a second Liverpool”, bringing increase occasions to north Cumbria. The canal – deep and huge sufficient for 60-ton barges – had barely been accomplished when the railways arrived.

If your eyes are eager sufficient, you might catch a glimpse of the tiny, gray merlin whirling throughout the huge skies

Port Carlisle’s backers swiftly crammed in the waterway and laid a monitor on prime of it. They had been too late. A rival group had already completed the line from Carlisle to the dock at Silloth. Port Carlisle was deserted. Now all that continues to be of this once-grand scheme is a terrace of homes, a chapel and a few crumbling remnants of the outdated wharfs, a monument to the results of what we would now name disruptive expertise.

Saltmarsh on the way to the Drovers Rest.Saltmarsh on the means to the Drovers Rest. Photograph: Alex Telfer/the Guardian

The gleaming saltmarsh north and west of Beaumont is grooved with streams of darkish water and the brackish muddy flats are crammed with wading birds – godwits, redshanks, oystercatchers, turnstones and snowy white egrets – in addition to half a dozen kinds of duck. The density of such succulent prey inevitably attracts raptors: peregrine falcons and hen harriers are noticed repeatedly and, in case your eyes are eager sufficient, you might even catch a glimpse of the tiny, gray merlin whirling throughout the huge skies. In spring and autumn tens of hundreds of barnacle and pink-footed geese and whooper swans land right here on their means to and from their summer time breeding grounds, the Solway’s enveloping quiet shattered by their mournful honking.

The walk south from Beaumont takes you to Monkhill, the place a transformed and bladeless Nineteenth-century windmill looms protectively above the tiny hamlet like some cartoon creature from the creativeness of Tove Jansson.

The pub

The Drovers Rest exterior Photograph: Alex Telfer/The Guardian

Drovers Rest is a conventional, low-slung pub with blazing fires and a heat, neighborhood really feel. It has great beer, educated, enthusiastic employees and creative, ale-friendly meals. Co-owner and chef Tom McMaster is a former butcher who makes his personal hot-smoked Cumberland sausages (vegan model accessible) to serve in do-it-yourself buns. The chips are chunky and crisp. Snacks embrace glorious pickled Czech cheese, and deep-fried macaroni cheese balls. There are about seven craft beers from northern breweries akin to Ulverston, First and Last and Crazy Monkey, plus experimental brews from additional afield. It’s the type of place that makes you take into account transferring home to be close to.

Stay

Hillside Farm B&B is on a working 1850s farm in the hamlet of Boustead Hill, 4 miles west of Monkhill. The location couldn’t be higher. The farm is sort of slap on Hadrian’s Wall, with open views throughout the Solway marshes to Scotland. There’s a double and a twin in the important home and a Georgian steady block has been transformed into a bunkhouse with room for a dozen folks. It doesn’t take card funds, so deliver money or a chequebook.
Doubles £90 B&B (single occupancy £60), bunk beds £15pp (fried breakfast from £4), hadrianswalkbnb.co.uk

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