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New York

Hearty, Stuffed Pastas and More Cozy Alpine Fare at this West Village Newcomer

What have to be one of many West Village’s priciest eating places — not counting sushi bars, that’s — quietly slipped into this small storefront that when housed Einat Admony’s short-lived Kish-Kash this previous May. What do I imply by costly? Well, sitting on a late summer season night on tree-lined Hudson Street throughout my first go to, I contemplated a $47 veal osso buco that towered like a ruined chateau within the foothills of the Alps, its turrets slouching below a thick mirepoix of finely diced greens. A rosemary-sprig pennant poked skyward, whereas a thick pond of tacky risotto unfold beside it. Damn, it was good!

A glowing frame structure with people inside eating.

Osteria Carlina on Hudson Street.

Osteria Carlina is likely one of the newest additions to the Village’s many in style Italian eating places. There are hoary red-sauced locations providing Italian-American fare, some almost a century outdated; and trendy spots that tout their regional underpinnings, providing extra trendy dishes from right here and there. But Osteria Carlina is a real regional restaurant, specializing in the meals of Turin, whereas straying to different northern Italian climes with its basic menu development of antipasti, primi, and secondi. The wine checklist is all-Italian, and a separate truffle menu runs as excessive as $125 for an entree of angel hair pasta.

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The restaurant is the most recent New York City escapade of Carlo Rolle, Moreno Cerutti, and Davide Poggi Ferrari — all hailing from Turin, the capital of Piemonte, and a metropolis within the Alpine foothills well-known for its race vehicles and refined delicacies. The trio beforehand opened San Carlo Osteria Piemonte in Soho, which focuses on the identical area, however with fairly a unique menu.

The most fabled dish in this area is vitello tonnato ($19). It mystifies many American gourmands {that a} sauce constructed from canned tuna will be spectacular, however then this isn’t any Chicken of the Sea tuna salad sandwich. Here the tinned seafood is remodeled right into a sauce so clean and ethereal it appears to haven’t any texture at all, simply briny beige deliciousness. The sauce is poured over curls of pink roast veal served at room temperature.

Curls of veal in a gray sauce.

Veal tonnato is amplified with caperberries.

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A black round grooved plate with shrimp and squid visible.

Seafood salad with recent peaches.

Amorphous greenish dumplings in a butter and crumbly cheese sauce.

Spinach dumplings in butter and parmesan.

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Carlina’s rendition of this unforgettable appetizer is improved with hulking caperberries, lengthy stems wagging, which appear to be they may have arrived by spaceship, offering crunch and tasting like gentle inexperienced chiles. Another favourite small plate is canederli ($17), squishy little spinach dumplings rife with bread crumbs and shredded speck, a form of smoked prosciutto. The dish reveals the sturdy affect of Austria, to the north of a number of Italian areas, has on the meals of Piemonte, and the three dumplings, showered with butter and parmesan, appear to be stalled vehicles in a blizzard snowbank.

There are extra typical antipasti, too, together with a seafood salad that’s primarily composed of shrimp and squid. It arrives with a skinny dressing of little discernible taste. On an early go to, recent peaches at the peak of their season have been added to the seafood salad, the form of function one would possibly anticipate at one of many tony ristorantes simply off Turin’ s Piazza San Carlo (although the peach solely succeeded in making me want I have been consuming a fruit salad slightly than one specializing in seafood).

While southern Italy worships dried pasta cooked to al dente, in Turin there’s nearly no such factor, and all of the pastas at Osteria Carlina, often eight in quantity, are freshly made. Many are stuffed like ravioli, however in painstaking colours and shapes that change because the seasons cross. One factor I beloved on a late summer season go to, however which had disappeared from the menu later, was a flower-shaped beet ravioli crammed with smooth cheese, wanting just like the wan darkish blossoms that seem in a backyard simply earlier than the primary frost.

A shallow plate of red ravioli in yellow sauce.

Flower-shaped beet ravioli.

broad yellow noodles with crumbly and creamy gray sauce on top.

Venetian type duck ragu.

My favourite pasta of these accessible at present is a duck ragu ($25) attributed to Venice, not in contrast to the basic ragus of Bologna however and not using a hint of tomato. Carlina’s will remind you that ragu was initially a French phrase that means “stew,” and right here the finely floor breast has been poached in a thick cream sauce, the proper topping to showcase a supple and nearly doughy tagliatelle. It’s a pasta ample in quantity to be your entree – though fancy Italian eating places usually frown on that.

Like the osso buco talked about above, entrees (aka secondi) are usually large, barely accompanied hunks of meat or complete fish which might be simply shareable and assist justify the excessive worth tags. There’s a plate-sized Milanese veal cutlet, in fact, in all probability essentially the most recognizable dish of the area and one that’s admired throughout Italy; a complete branzino crusted with hazelnuts; and a beef cheek braised in Barolo, Piemonte’s most distinguished wine and an entree I’m kicking myself now for not making an attempt.

Speaking of wines, you must drink some along with your meal, and the costs on glasses and bottles are decrease at Osteria Carlina than is perhaps anticipated, one thing usually seen in Italy, the place ingesting applicable and even distinguished wines along with your meal is an crucial. I washed my veal shank down with an $18 glass of Barolo from Cascina Boschetti, which supplied the proper, grease-cutting backdrop, and with a good-size pour, too. It’d be laborious to seek out this wine deal at an analogous restaurant.

A round cakey pudding with a cookie on top and brown crumbs all around.

Piedmontese bonet, a chocolate flan.

The desserts are primarily forgettable, and in addition to, who may eat one other course after the three earlier ones? Still, the apple strudel that appears to have crept throughout the border from Austria is good, fruity, and flaky, however a more sensible choice is bonet ($11), a particular Piemontese chocolate flan topped with a crumbly 17th century almond macaroon. On the opposite hand, for those who refuse dessert completely, the hosts will hand you a free cookie plate, the proper factor to go along with your final sips of Barolo.





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