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Fashion

The Roy Family’s Greatest Fits: What Fashion Means In ‘Succession’

The sartorial uniform of the ultra-wealthy Roy household on HBO’s “Succession” doesn’t embody herringbone vests from J.Crew or Patagonia quarter-zips seen on bankers throughout Manhattan.

The Roys are too wealthy for that.

Unlike the searing advert hominem assaults and brilliantly callous insults they spew at one another, the characters’ clothes decisions, whereas terribly costly, are delicate. When PGM heiress Naomi Pierce (Annabelle Dexter-Jones) wears a pleated white two-piece ensemble paying homage to pajamas, it’s Proenza Schouler and prices about $2,000. That brown T-shirt Kendall Roy (Jeremy Strong) usually wears isn’t simply any T-shirt; it’s a $340 high from Maison Margiela.

For costume designer Michelle Matland, who was unavailable for an interview, “Succession” is an train in dressing the uber rich. From Roman (Kieran Culkin) to Willa (Justine Lupe), the way wherein every character is offered is just not solely a marker of sophistication — with a tinge of their purported personalities — however an indicator of their standing in relation to patriarch Logan Roy (Brian Cox) as they compete to interchange him as the following CEO of media conglomerate Waystar Royco.

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Since Season 2, quite a few social media accounts — like @successionfashion, which has amassed almost 30,000 followers — have archived and documented the clothes on the present. Tiffanie Woods, the girl behind @successionfits, makes use of her account to convey collectively her Google and Reddit discoveries about completely different items featured on the present.

“I just started the Instagram the day before the premiere of Season 3,” mentioned the social media supervisor from Buffalo, New York. “When they were on the yacht in the Season 2 finale, I was like, everyone was just bringing it. It just felt like such an in-your-face-but-not showing of wealth.”

The characters put on items from Club Monaco, Tom Ford, Max Mara, Cartier, and extra. Woods, whose love for trend started on Tumblr, mentioned {that a} informal observer wouldn’t have the ability to establish these manufacturers in “Succession” with out prior trend data. The unassuming but unattainable nature of the Roys’ garments is what appeals to Woods.

“It’s very much the whole, ‘Oh, [Mark] Zuckerberg only wears the same shirt and pants’ [thing],” mentioned Woods. But they’re like Kendall’s Maison Margiela shirts: “You could not afford it. It’s also why rich people don’t like to talk about money, and it’s because they do not want the underlings to know the amount of wealth that they have.”

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Woods continued: “I might have read it on like a Reddit thread where Shiv changes between like three watches within two scenes. It’s thinking about how she’s doing that as different power moves; it’s the same outfit, but who she’s talking to at the moment is changing. Those are the ways that they like to show off their wealth.”

According to W Magazine, Zuckerberg’s extremely boring grey T-shirt is from Brunello Cucinelli and retails for upwards of $300. The Meta CEO said that he has “multiple” of the identical shirt in order that clothes choices are hardly ever selections he has to make.

“Succession’s” disgruntled youngest and household “sicko” Roman Roy has a equally understated look. Roman is a no-tie, popped collar form of man who is never in a blazer. What he’s, paradoxically, desperately attempting to venture to his father is a way of being cool, calm and picked up — in contrast to his hungry siblings. Of course, the truth is that he isn’t; Roman may truly be probably the most involved with getting Logan’s approval.

Contrary to the laid-back image Roman wants to project — rarely ever wearing a tie or blazer — the youngest Roy sibling is deeply concerned with his father's opinion.Contrary to the laid-back picture Roman needs to venture — hardly ever ever sporting a tie or blazer — the youngest Roy sibling is deeply involved along with his father’s opinion.

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Woods mentioned that Roman’s fashion is static, just like his place within the competitors. As Shiv famous within the Season 3 finale, Logan will possible by no means take Roman significantly as a result of he perceives him as a sexual deviant. Meanwhile, Kendall’s extremely curated picture fluctuates in keeping with his place within the household hierarchy.

“It’s very interesting because he takes pride in it, like he thinks about it,” mentioned Woods of Kendall’s presence. “I think he uses his clothing, even though it’s not that in your face, as a way to process his emotions. The color choices in Season 2 after the Season 1 finale, he’s dark. It’s the grays, the dark browns — very neutral compared to the crisp white button up.”

After committing vehicular manslaughter on the finish of the primary season, Logan’s “number one boy,” Kendall, slowly leaves behind his staid go well with and tie, changing into a dynamic dresser. We have seen him put on all the pieces from classic baseball jerseys to Gucci bomber jackets, the latter serving as armor towards the fixed critiques of his father. In Season 1, Episode 8, Kendall sports activities “dopey sneakers” — as he calls them — from Lanvin as he embarks on a short-lived stint as an artwork connoisseur.

In Season 3, Episode 9 of In Season 3, Episode 9 of “Succession,” Kendall is clad in a brown go well with, in contrast to the brighter patterns and florals that the others put on whereas in Italy.

“What goes unsaid is that we don’t know if [the characters] are choosing this. They are straight billionaires; they themselves have stylists,” Woods mentioned. Whereas with Kendall, “He’s like, ‘I just picked those up,’ but that is totally him because they’re like these gaudy sneakers. A stylist wouldn’t pick those out for him. Those are the little markers that they leave for interpretation for the viewer.”

By the top of the season, he’s again in knits and within the chilly embrace of his father, who’s but once more cleansing up his mess. Kendall makes use of his clothes as a software of revolt, usually as a way to seek out id and distinguish himself from Logan. Woods additionally famous that Kendall’s stylistic decisions are typical of highly effective white individuals capitalizing off of Black tradition when it fits them.

“With the chains and the jewelry,” mentioned Woods, “he throws in this weird AAVE that is so not him because he doesn’t have an identity that is not in the eyes of his father. He’s like constantly trying on what he’s interested in.”

From vintage baseball jerseys to chains and Gucci bomber jackets, Kendall's style adapts according to the status of his relationship with Logan.From classic baseball jerseys to chains and Gucci bomber jackets, Kendall’s fashion adapts in keeping with the standing of his relationship with Logan.

The solely lady competing on this household struggle is Shiv, who has turn into some of the controversial characters, style-wise. In Season 2, as a newly married lady, she transitions from lengthy curls to a blunt bob, and ditches her borderline sloppy, political marketing consultant outfits for a crisp rebirth.

The bodily embodiment of the “gaslight, gatekeep, girl boss” meme, Shiv needs her fashion and presence to be sharp in an effort to persuade her father that she is a formidable risk. Her fashion evolution actually makes Shiv stand out to the viewers, but it surely’s unclear if that’s what Matland supposed.

Shiv’s garments are unhealthy, tho i am unable to inform how deliberately. girls w/ Shiv $$ usually rent picture consultants who peruse netaporter for days & then come to their home & fashion/pack a wardrobe for trip. it is exhausting to imagine such an individual would have such “it cinches ur waist” style

— Rachel Seville Tashjian (@theprophetpizza) December 13, 2021

That’s why Shiv’s wardrobe has been like that. It reveals how she isn’t that woman, by no means has been, and he or she’s too up her personal ass to see it SMH

— If You Evil, HMU (@Lamiasdottir) December 13, 2021

I’ve a official criticism about Succession over the previous few episodes which is that Shiv’s wardrobe is not proper. Those White Lotus-ass tropical attire don’t make sense for both the setting or her character and all of her wardrobe main up till now.

— Julia Claire (@ohJuliatweets) December 13, 2021

“She was trying to be more approachable [in Season 1], more liberal because she was in politics,” Woods mentioned. “She was trying to distance herself from the family corporate culture, then as soon as she started to go back inside with the family, it switched.”

The incontrovertible fact that Shiv’s womanhood is so singular within the male-dominated Roy orbit additionally performs out in maybe unintended methods.

“She also has a body,” Woods mentioned. “In those roles of high-powered women, you usually have rail thin people, so that also affects how people comment on the way that they dress.”

Shiv and Naomi Pierce are virtually trend foils to 1 one other. While Pierce is “this wild party girl and fashionista,” mentioned Woods, Shiv won’t ever occupy that position. “Shiv is just here to girl boss and do as little as she can to get to the top.”

Shiv Roy became much more put together once she traded politics for corporate family rivalries. Shiv Roy grew to become rather more put collectively as soon as she traded politics for company household rivalries.

Though Woods doesn’t assume Shiv has a great sense of fashion, she admired just a few of her items in latest episodes — such because the $2,490 Ralph Lauren halter cocktail dress in Season 3’s eighth episode. (In that very same episode, Kendall wears a $5,975 go well with from Brunello Cucinelli.)

As Shiv takes extra dangers in her skilled pursuits, Logan grows annoyed along with his daughter. Simultaneously, she’s additionally taking dangers together with her trend — which has drawn extra criticism from viewers.

“When people talk about women, they’re like, ‘Oh my God, I can’t believe they’re wearing like a $50,000 gown.’ Men’s suits are insane, but you don’t know because they’re not flashy,” she mentioned. “It’s rooted in sexism and misogyny. Why is it wrong for a woman to wear this dress compared to this man wearing a $20,000 suit?”

The @successionfits creator remarked that on the planet of the present, picture curation is all the pieces. However, the situations of poor cohesion usually function plot gadgets. Characters on the periphery, like Connor and Willa, are simply as misplaced as their garments. That has been most according to Cousin Greg, who had his personal fashion evolution in Season 3.

Cousin Greg's style and character arc have evolved the most of anyone in Cousin Greg’s fashion and character arc have advanced probably the most of anybody in “Succession.”

Greg Hirsch is a idiot and a shapeshifter, contorting to suit the mission. When we first meet him, he’s proven up on his Great-Uncle Logan’s doorstep in a utilitarian jacket, a button-down and slacks. Played by Nicholas Braun, who’s 6’7”, Greg has solely ever been in garments that look as raveled as his inner monologue seems to be.

That is, till the Season 3 finale, when he emerges in a slim match Paisley & Grey polo. On the cusp of what appears to be his Lacoste period, Greg makes “a deal with the devil” (that’s, Traitor Tom), slowly shifting up the Roy household totem pole.

“Greg has evolved the most, hands down,” mentioned Woods. “He literally was throwing up [inside a costume] at a theme park in Episode 1, and now he’s sitting pretty in between two women at an Italy wedding. He is like one of the sneakiest chameleons in the bunch. You see him feeling more comfortable and he’s leaning into the JFK Jr-esque outfit.”

Apart from the shows of opulence, Woods mentioned that “Succession” trend is private and political. It’s a conduit by means of which these characters talk and a mirror of the calculated, transactional decisions members of the Roy household make.

Woods says that viewers could be remiss to neglect trend’s impression on the broader scope of the plot.

“That’s exactly what I think about when I watch it. … You get so much more of a deeper understanding of the show through those fashion choices,” mentioned Woods. “Shows like ‘Succession’ literally hand pick and choose it to make the entire story come together.”

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